There is not one season, but as many Verdons as there are moods. Swimming and lavender in
summer, a green canyon and a lively river in spring, golden calm in autumn, skiing in
winter. Here is how to choose your moment — and dodge the crowds.
In brief
Is September a good time to visit the Gorges du Verdon?
Answer
Yes, for most visitors: September to early October (like mid-May to June) offers a good compromise — fine weather, sites open, moderate crowds and gentler prices.
Swimming
The water of Lake Sainte-Croix stays mild until September. Swimming is banned in the river in the gorge (risk of EDF releases), and the calendar below lists supervised lake swimming in July–August.
Hiking
September–October: bearable heat, trails open.
Crowds
The crowds have melted away and prices drop; you can find a space in the car parks of the flagship sites (Galetas, Route des Crêtes) without arriving at dawn.
Keep an eye on
Roadworks on the Col d’Allos from 14 September to 13 November 2026: traffic stopped on certain days and at certain times (details and daily status in the calendar below). The high-altitude sites gradually close from late October.
A marker for each season
Spring (March – June)
High, lively river, green gorge, full waterfalls; visitor numbers still light until mid-June. Nights stay cool, especially at altitude.
Summer (July – August)
Swimming and turquoise lakes, but also the busiest season: car parks full by 10am at the popular sites. Arrive early.
Autumn (September – November)
Lake water still mild in September, crowds gone, warmer colours.
Winter (December – February)
Route des Crêtes and the passes closed under the snow; skiing at Val d’Allos. Gréoux-les-Bains thermal baths: 2026 season from 3 March to 5 December, closed afterwards.
Verified on . Opening dates to be confirmed before you go.
Spring
March – June
Ideal
The finest window. The river is high and lively (peak rafting season), the gorge is green, the waterfalls full, the light crisp. Visitor numbers stay light until mid-June. Nights stay cool, especially at altitude.
For: Hiking, white water, photography, relative quiet
Summer
July – August
The season of swimming and turquoise lakes — but also the busiest: car parks full by 10am at the popular sites (Galetas, the Sainte-Croix beaches). Strong heat, possible afternoon storms in the mountains. The Valensole lavender flowers from mid-June to mid-July, peaking in early July.
For: Swimming, lakes, lavender, families — by arriving early
Autumn
September – November
Ideal
The lake water is still mild in September, the crowds have melted away, the colours warm up and prices drop. The high-altitude sites gradually close from late October.
For: Hiking, late-season swimming, peace and quiet
Winter
December – February
The Verdon at rest. The Grand Canyon turns wild and deserted, the Route des Crêtes and the passes close under the snow. The Haut-Verdon switches to skiing (Val d’Allos); at Gréoux-les-Bains, the 2026 thermal season ends on 5 December. Quiet villages, restaurants often closed.
For: Skiing, the solitude of wide-open spaces
The right moment for what you want
Swimming in the lakes
June to September — water warmest in July–August.
Rafting & white water
April to June (high water), depending on the EDF releases.
Hiking
May–June and September–October: bearable heat, trails open.
Late September to October: the crowds are gone and prices drop; the lake water, though, cools quickly after September.
Skiing & spa
Skiing at Val d’Allos from mid-December to early April; Gréoux-les-Bains thermal baths from 3 March to 5 December 2026.
Opening calendar of the sites
Many Verdon sites are seasonal. The dates below are indicative and depend on the year’s
weather — the volatile data (passes, shuttle) should be confirmed on the day.
Route des Crêtes (D23)
late March → late November
Closed in winter (snow/ice)
Blanc-Martel shuttle (Park)
April 3 → November 1 2026
Every day from June 29 to September 14
Haut-Verdon passes (Allos, Cayolle, Champs)
~mid-June → late November
Col d’Allos reopened 12 June 2026. Roadworks from 14 September to 13 November 2026 (Allos town hall): traffic stopped Monday to Thursday from 8am to 5pm and Friday from 8am to 1pm; open in the evening, overnight and from Friday 1pm to Monday 8am — daily status at inforoute04.fr
Supervised swimming (lakes)
July – August
On some beaches of Sainte-Croix and Castillon
Gréoux-les-Bains thermal baths
3 March → 5 December 2026
Monday to Saturday
Skiing — Val d’Allos
mid-December → early April
Subject to snow cover
Visiting in the shoulder season: quieter
Mid-May to June, then September to early October: before and after the summer
crowds. According to the calendar above, almost all the sites are already or still open
(Route des Crêtes, shuttle); only the Haut-Verdon passes do not reopen until around mid-June — for a completely different experience of the Verdon.
Far fewer crowds
You can find a space in the car parks at the flagship sites (Galetas, Route des Crêtes) without arriving at dawn.
Gentler prices
Accommodation and activity rentals are often cheaper outside July–August.
Swimming still possible
The water of Lake Sainte-Croix stays mild until September — without the summer crush on the beaches.
Wildlife easier to spot
Vultures can be seen all year round at Rougon and on the Route des Crêtes — without the summer crowds at the viewpoints. Where and when to see them →
For summer, one rule only: get up early. For the rest of the year, head for spring or
autumn.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to visit the Gorges du Verdon?
For most visitors, mid-May to June and September to early October offer the best compromise: fine weather, sites open, moderate crowds and gentler prices. July and August are ideal for swimming in the lakes but very busy (car parks full by 10am). Winter is reserved for skiing in the Haut-Verdon; the Gréoux-les-Bains thermal baths are open from 3 March to 5 December 2026.
Is September a good time to visit the Gorges du Verdon?
Yes, for most visitors. September to early October (like mid-May to June) offers a good compromise: fine weather, sites open, moderate crowds and gentler prices. The water of Lake Sainte-Croix stays mild until September and the trails are open, with bearable heat. Two things to check: swimming is banned in the river in the gorge (risk of EDF releases), and roadworks on the Col d’Allos are planned from 14 September to 13 November 2026, with traffic stopped on certain days and at certain times (daily status at inforoute04.fr).
Is it worth visiting the Verdon out of season (shoulder season)?
Yes. Mid-May to June and September to early October offer skies comparable to summer, almost all the sites already or still open (except the Haut-Verdon passes, which only reopen around mid-June; see the calendar above), gentler prices and, above all, far fewer people at the flagship sites. In September, Lake Sainte-Croix is still swimmable. The Rougon vultures can be seen all year round, without the summer crowds at the viewpoint.
When can you see the lavender in the Verdon?
The lavender of the Valensole plateau generally flowers from mid-June to mid-July, with a peak in early July, before the harvest. The Valensole Lavender Festival takes place on the 3rd Sunday of July. Flowering depends on the year’s weather — it is best to check how far along it is before making the trip.
Is the Verdon really packed in July and August?
Yes: at the flagship sites (Pont du Galetas, the Lake Sainte-Croix beaches, the Route des Crêtes belvederes), car parks are full by 10am and the roads are busy. The trick: arrive before 9am or in the late afternoon, and favour the less-visited areas (Haut-Verdon, the Lower Gorges, Haut-Var).
Can you swim in the Verdon in spring?
The water stays cold in spring (the river is fed by snowmelt and dam releases). Swimming in the lakes only really becomes pleasant from June, and the water of Lake Sainte-Croix stays mild until September. Note: swimming is banned in the river in the gorge (risk of EDF releases).
What is there to do in the Gorges du Verdon in winter?
The heart of the canyon is quiet and wild (the Route des Crêtes and the passes are closed). Winter is lived in the Haut-Verdon with skiing at Val d’Allos (mid-December to early April). At Gréoux-les-Bains, the 2026 thermal season runs from 3 March to 5 December: the baths are closed in the depths of winter. It is the season of quiet villages and deserted wide-open spaces.
Check for yourself
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